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When curating a ranking of London’s top eateries, one might anticipate familiar award-winning establishments. But, situated prominently among these food titans is a unpretentious salonu located in a outlying area of north London.

A Shocking Accolade

This little Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent food magazine. The recognition has made the owners completely surprised.

“I’m totally surprised,” says a owner’s son, referring to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their small restaurant securing such a prominent spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

This compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular destination, has retained much of its earlier charm. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking performance, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” comments the owner.

A Signature Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is all down to the cuisine, and this establishment more than delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a tender consistency.

It is then added into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. As the savoury mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to absorb all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is folded neatly inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty burst of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a deeper, nuttier and less sickly profile.

Rising Above the Stars

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, similar experiences at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

The Philosophy of Heart

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I do not believe in that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is friendliness, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is shared by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to show what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I am really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a personal life but her friends would support her to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Recognition for the Community

This restaurant’s success is likely to have meaning outside its own premises. “I believe a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the greater meaning of this gastronomic achievement.